Practical tips · 15 November 2025 · 6 min
Side gates, reversed timings, forgotten temples: how to live Angkor in silence.
Every morning, thousands of visitors crowd the ponds of Angkor Wat for sunrise. We enter through the east gate, on the other side, and wait for the light in an empty gallery.
Then we reverse the classic circuit: Ta Prohm while the groups are at Angkor Wat, the Bayon at lunchtime. And for the real thrill, Beng Mealea, still half swallowed by the jungle.
Journeys
Angkor's temples outside peak hours, the Tonlé Sap villages and Kampot pepper.
Fourteen days, three countries: Hanoi and Lan Ha Bay, Hoi An and Hue, the monks' morning alms round in Luang Prabang, then Angkor through the east gate.
Journal
March 2026 · 6 min
From Hanoi's clear broth to Saigon's sweeter bowl, the national soup tells the whole country's story.
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February 2026 · 8 min
Three climates in one country: here is how to time your journey well.
Claire Duval
January 2026 · 7 min
Capital of the Nguyen from 1802 to 1945, Hue still cultivates a silent elegance.
Minh Trần
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